As November revs up and the holidays get into full swing, you’ll need a go-to bottle or two for all your hosting and guesting occasions. This time of year the Central Bottle team looks to their wine-producing friends in the Piedmont region for a selection of fall-friendly pours. “The Piedmont is to Italy what Burgundy is to France,” says General Manager Fanny Katz. “It’s incredibly expressive; it’s incredibly elegant; it’s incredibly aromatic.” The red Nebbiolo grape is particularly suited to the season, packing flavors like roses, earth, tar, cherries and smoke that pair well with autumn’s roasted game, creamy soups and “anything with lots of butter.” From bright Barbaresco to mellow Barolo, she shares the lowdown on the shop offerings, and which bottles to pop and which to save for future sips.
Barolo and Barbaresco are two regions (or DOCGs) of Piedmont, well-known for their Nebbiolo vintages. “Barbaresco is thought to have slightly brighter acidity, slightly softer tannins,” explains Katz, “while Barolo can be denser, darker, a little bit smokier.” Both types are required to be aged before release, which helps mitigate some of the grape’s more intense, in-your-face flavors. Soft, aromatic secondary and tertiary flavors develop in the bottle for a more mature, mellow pour. Barolos and Barbarescos lean towards the pricier side, but they’re the kind of gift that continues to give; they can rest on the wine rack and be opened to enjoy après-party.
In terms of what to open right away, Katz has more than a few recommendations from Central Bottle’s Nebbiolo cart. “The 2010 Ricci San Martino is pretty outrageous. 2010 was one of the best years ever in the Piedmont.” The Nebbiolo is blended with Barbera, another red wine grape of the region, for a dense, plum-y texture. “It’s a little richer,” Katz says, “with really racy earth, good smoke, good savory notes and delicious herbaceousness. If you don’t know what someone likes, bringing them something with a little bit of density is never a bad thing.” If you’ve got your heart, but not your budget, set on Barolo, look for the Nebbiolo Perbacco from Vietti Winery. “For all intents and purposes, it’s declassified Barolo,” aged for two years and plucked from fairly old vines planted in the Barolo region.
Before you accept your holiday invites, or send your own, head to Central Bottle to peruse the Nebbiolo bottles and pick up one of Katz’s suggestions. The grape goes well with New England’s November palate, whether you choose something young and fresh to sip during supper or aged and mellow to remember you by.
