A study in balance, Julien at Le Méridien manages to be thoroughly French and yet entirely Bostonian. The ornate dining room, with its carved gold-leaf ceiling and crystal chandeliers, pays homage to the Renaissance Revival. The N.C. Wyeth murals in the bar and even the name itself (after Boston’s first French restaurant Julien’s Restorato, which opened in 1794) recall Boston’s rich history. In the hands of executive chef Daniel Kenney and pastry chef John Quinn, the menu at Julien masterfully creates classic French cuisine from New England’s bountiful produce.