Sage is a lot like the North End neighborhood it calls home: it springs from good local stock, and it’s gotten noticeably more worldly as it’s grown up. When Sage first opened its doors in the mid-’90s, native North Ender Anthony Susi led the team of hired help in the kitchen. Then Susi left to experience the broader culinary scene. When he returned, in the late ’90s, it was as chef-owner of Sage. These days, Susi’s menu offers a mix of old and new world Italian-American cuisine that goes far beyond red sauce. The dining room is still small, but sure of itself. And the restaurant is at the top of Zagat’s Boston list. Click here for a preview.