“Toto, I don’t think we’re in Saugus anymore.” It’s a vivid example of Boston’s rapid expansion that foodies have made Nico’s in Saugus the newest suburban hot spot. Less than a fifteen minute drive from downtown, Nico’s has staked out a strategic location, making fine dining easily accessible to the North Shore, and boasting devotees from Chelsea to Marblehead. Credit chef/owner Michael DePaolis for putting Nico’s on the map. The Phantom Gourmet was the first to find him, recommending Nico’s as one of the area’s “tiny treasures.” Not so tiny, really. The 30-seat dining room is spare, sophisticated and inviting.