Service Bar Chat with Nicholas Daddona

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Congenial and classic, Nicholas Daddona is a back-to-basics kind of guy. He’s been part of the restaurant scene for 15 years — plenty of time to get caught up in the hype of the mixology movement — but, to him, bartender culture has always been about one thing: passion. Find out which spirit he’s particularly jazzed about at the moment, the Boston restaurant he frequents most when he’s not working, and what country inspired the tasting menu at Meritage.

Where do you work now? What’s your position? Where else have you worked in the last five years?

I am the Beverage Director for the Boston Harbor Hotel and Meritage Restaurant + Wine Bar, and I have been here just about 5 years. Previously, I was the Beverage Director for Les Zygomates Bistro in the Leather District. I am primarily responsible for the Meritage wine list and beverage program, but I also run all beverage for the Boston Harbor Hotel. This includes Rowes Wharf Sea Grille’s coastal wines and bright cocktail combinations, and Rowe’s Wharf Bar’s savory wines and outstanding whiskey selection. I also select wines for our room service program, as well as each banquet and wedding party we host.

Briefly, how did you get involved in restaurants (and, specifically, bartending)? What draws you to this line of work?

I found beverage and wine through the bar! I move to Boston in 2003 and worked in restaurants – the minute I saw my first Bostonian bartender I knew that it was what I wanted to learn to do. I’ve always loved the history of spirits and cocktails, and it was eventually a natural move to wine and being a sommelier.

What’s your favorite drink to make (or wine or beer to pour)? Least favorite?

On our tasting menu at Meritage, we take a snapshot of Peru. Scallops, the sea, the mountains – we pair the dish with a made-to-order Pisco Sour. This is the national drink of Peru and Pisco pairs fantastically with the food.

How do you feel about the ‘mixology’ movement—does that term appeal to you, not appeal to you? What do you think it means to be involved in the bartender culture, if you agree that there is one?

I think there is a bartender and beverage culture, and it comes back to passion. That’s what I love about bartenders and beverage professionals. For some, the hype and the lifestyle (and the beards) can get in the way, but it all comes down to the love of what you do, and the pursuit and sharing of knowledge.

On your days off, what kind of places do you frequent? A lot of industry folk are happier with a Miller High Life and a Fernet than composed cocktails or craft beer. You?

Bar Mezzana is a favorite of mine. You have to love a place that has arguably the best crudo in town, but also has my favorite burger. I always visit Ryan Lotz at the bar and order whatever tiki drink currently has his attention. I do enjoy a good amaro and a beer, but I can also put away some crisp high acid old world white (Riesling or Chablis – or a 40 of Muscadet).

What do you always keep stocked at home? Are there different things you like to drink or to make for special occasions? Snow storms, sick days, having friends over, drinks for dinner, etc.

A long day calls for a gin martini. My current is Hammer& Sons old English Gin and Dolin vermouth up with a twist. Heaven after a double. The only problem with my wine at home is that I can’t seem to keep any champagne or burgundy! I always seem to find a reason to drink those.

Are you excited about one spirit in particular? Is there something really overrated or underrated, in your opinion?

Apple Brandy. Cider has made a growing impression on our city, but I love seeing its big brother finding its way onto Boston lists. As an ingredient in a cocktail or as a digestif, apple brandy as a local spirit or Calvados from northwest France is wonderful. I highly encourage anyone who is a whiskey lover to give apple brandy a try – it has never disappointed!

What’s something you wish the average guest knew about your job—not service-wise, but related to the craft of bartending. (In other words, apart from common courtesy and being a good guest, what’s something you think everybody should know about bartending?)

From a bar and beverage perspective, look for those bartenders, sommeliers, servers, or managers who really connect with you. Places like Trina’s Starlight, The Hawthorne, Les Sablons, Oleana, and Hojoko all have some of the top talent in the city, and passion and knowledge pours out of them as they work. It’s great to see a bartender or sommelier (check out the somms at Grill 23) speak to a guest about beverage. They both start going off about all of the things they love about the product or cocktail. Typically, those types of employees in restaurants turn an average night out into one that you will tell stories about for years to come.

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