The Return of The Coupe

Champagne_towerThis is a comeback story.

For decades, the champagne coupe has toiled in obscurity. The once ubiquitous piece of glassware had become relegated to ceremonial status – making the odd appearance at wedding toasts and as part of the rare champagne tower. But thanks to the cocktail revival (and a timely assist from Mad Men) these sleek sippers have reemerged on bar tops across the country and around town.

The coupe’s origin story is the stuff of legend. It was long believed that the shallow bowl with rounded edges (kind of like a wine glass that’s been cut off just below the curve) was modeled after the shape of Marie Antoinette’s breasts. Unfortunately for those of us who like a good laugh (or to drink out of glassware inspired by bosoms), this titillating tale is entirely false. The coupe originated in England in 1663 – more than 100 years before Antoinette’s birth.

Designed to be held by the stem and thus allowing the drinker to avoid warming its contents with their hands, the coupe was all the rage in the US post-prohibition and into the 1960s until the champagne flute popped up on the scene. The skinnier, narrower design of the flute, better suited for retaining carbonation, made the coupe all but obsolete, something dusted off only for weddings.

But its impracticality as a method of champagne delivery made it an ideal utility player as an all-purpose cocktail glass. Its open mouth highlights the aromatics of cocktails and provides a pleasing alternative to the traditional, angled martini glass.

the cocktail labIn addition to the practical benefits, the coupe is just plain pretty. In The Cocktail Lab, author Tony Conigliaro describes drinking as “a sensual pleasure,” waxing poetic on the important role glassware plays in the overall enjoyment of the product. “Aesthetics and the perception of taste are interwoven; the visual aspect of the glass is very important….Drinks do taste different in different glassware: the weight, texture, thickness, raw material, and shape are all factors in the taste experience.”

Trina's CocktailEmma Hollander, General Manager of Trina’s Starlite Lounge in Somerville, agrees. “I love coupes; they’re very elegant.” She and her bar staff use the versatile, stemmed glass for all manner of cocktail, including whiskey drinks like the Boulevardier. Hollander recognizes the effect an up glass can have on the guest experience. “We pour the drink in front of you,” she explained, “so seeing a pretty, frosty coupe is nice. I’d use them all the time if I could.”

Whether you’re seeking to enhance your drink experience or are purely in it for appearances, raise a glass to this little remnant from the past and welcome the coupe back onto the bar.

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